Cetearyl Alcohol and Ceteareth-20 are the INCI names, i.e. the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, for a mixture of chemical ingredients classified as emulsifiers. Chemically, it is a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol, oxyethylated with twenty moles of ethylene oxide. The mixture can be obtained from natural sources, including renewable plant materials. In industry, it is mainly obtained from a palm kernel oil derivative. Such a raw material can be certified under the RSPO Mass Balance model.

This certification confirms that the palm oil used to produce the derivatives contained in the final product comes from plantations that do not cause the depletion of natural resources. At the same time, its production respects the rights of the people living in the areas where oil palms are grown. Due to its origin, it can be used as an ingredient in vegan cosmetics. Cetearyl Alcohol and Ceteareth-20 do not cause irritation or allergic reactions.

Properties and application

Cetearyl Alcohol and Ceteareth-20 is a non-ionic surfactant. It works perfectly in combination with other non-ionic surfactants, but also in mixtures with anionic and cationic surfactants.  Thanks to its cleansing properties and high compatibility with other agents, the mixture of Cetearyl Alcohol and Ceteareth-20 is used, for example, in face and body preparations and scrubs, as well as in micellar liquids and make-up removers. An additional benefit of using this ingredient is that, despite its excellent cleansing properties, it does not cause excessive drying or dehydration of the skin. This is particularly important as the drying effect of anionic surfactants can be neutralised precisely by using Cetearyl Alcohol and Ceteareth-20. In such formulations, for example in hair and skin care products, it softens and smooths the skin by creating an occlusive protective layer that moisturises and prevents excessive water loss from the treated area. The mixture is also used in cleansing and skin care cosmetics as a conditioning agent and emollient.

The mixture is resistant to hard water and is highly stable over a wide pH range, which translates into many possible applications. Cosmetic products whose pH deviates significantly from neutral, such as depilatory creams or hair straighteners, can also contain it in their formulation without fear of instability. Cetearyl Alcohol and Ceteareth-20 is a mixture of emulsifiers that has the ability to combine two immiscible phases – water and oil – allowing cosmetics to achieve the desired form and consistency. The substance is commonly used as an O/W emulsifier, i.e. oil in water, where the lipophilic molecules of the oil phase are suspended in the water phase. Such emulsions are characterised by their lightness and rapid absorption. They are used in preparations for all skin types, including sensitive skin. Cetearyl Alcohol and Ceteareth-20 can therefore be found in various types of creams, face and hair masks, lotions and serums.

The mixture is an excellent modifier of rheological properties, i.e. it improves consistency. It increases viscosity and improves application properties, making it suitable for use in creams, lotions and hair conditioners. In addition to strictly skin care cosmetics, the properties of the substance allow it to be used in formulations such as make-up bases, foundations, mascaras, eyeliners, lipsticks and lip balms. Cetearyl Alcohol and Ceteareth-20 is a foam stabiliser, hence its further advantage for use as an ingredient in soaps, detergents, shampoos and face gels, including anti-acne preparations.