Polysorbate 20 is the INCI name for sorbitan monolaurate, which has found its use primarily in the cosmetics industry but also performs similar functions in the production of pharmaceuticals, food, agricultural chemicals, and household and industrial cleaners.
Polysorbate 20 is a non-ionic surfactant and emulsifier used mainly in the cosmetics industry. The common chemical name of the compound is ethoxylated sorbitan monolaurate. Its CAS number is 9005-64-5. It is an amphipathic compound consisting of polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters. It is a complex material given the number of possible compounds and structural isomers that can be formed during synthesis.
Characteristics of Polysorbate 20:
The most common application for Polysorbate 20 is in all kinds of cosmetic and personal care products. It is used, among others, as a solvent for other components of cosmetic formulations, as an emulsifier that allows combining hydrophilic and hydrophobic components (mainly used in oil-in-water emulsions). Polysorbate 20 also acts as a stabiliser to the product obtained (preventing phase separation in the emulsion) and the resulting foam. The compound is also used to reduce the viscosity of surfactant solutions. It is considered a mild cleaning detergent that does not cause irritation. Polysorbate 20 as a cosmetic ingredient lubricates and soothes the skin. It reduces potential irritating and drying properties of other cosmetic ingredients. It was even used in the first shampoos designed for children. It is an effective microemulsifier and solubiliser for dissolving compounds such as essential oils and perfumes in water. Of all the compounds in the Polysorbate group, Polysorbate 20 has the mildest effect.
Products containing Polysorbate 20:
Polysorbate 20 is widely used in science. It has become an excipient in biopharmaceutical preparations, some of which may have enzymatic activity. The effect of Polysorbate 20 in biopharmaceuticals is based on its role as a stabiliser. Therefore, it is necessary for the surfactant to maintain its structure intact. If it becomes autoxidised, a Polysorbate 20 side-chain cleavage will occur and ultimately short-chain acids such as formic acid will form, which may affect the stability of the biopharmaceutical product. Other pharmaceutical uses include topical analgesics, anti-rheumatic drugs, and in sunscreens. Like Polysorbate 80, Polysorbate 20 is listed as clarifying agent in ophthalmic preparations and as contact lens cleaners or solvents at concentrations not exceeding 1.0%.
In addition to the said uses, Polysorbate 20 also serves as an emulsifier in fire-resistant hydraulic fluids. These are primarily HFA, HFB, HFC and HFD-U liquids.
In metalworking, it is used as a component of machining fluids. It increases emulsion stability and improves the foaming characteristics of fluids used in metalworking processes.
In addition, commercial products containing up to 99% of Polysorbate 20, such as ROKwinol, offered by the PCC Group, are used in the agrochemical industry as an emulsifier for pesticide formulations.
